From V4 to V6: What Actually Changes in Your Training
The intermediate plateau is real. Here's what needs to shift in your training to break through it.
The V4 to V6 range is where most climbers get stuck. You've developed basic technique, built some finger strength, and can flash moderate problems. But the next grades feel impossibly hard. What gives?
Why the Plateau Exists
V0-V4 rewards effort and basic technique. Show up, try hard, learn a few movement patterns, and you'll progress. This phase is mostly about motor learning — your brain is figuring out what climbing is.
V5-V7 is where climbing becomes a strength sport layered on top of a skill sport. The holds get smaller, the moves get more powerful, and the sequences get longer. You can no longer brute-force your way through problems by just "trying harder."
Research on expert performance (Ericsson et al., 1993) shows that deliberate practice — training specific weaknesses with immediate feedback — is what drives improvement past the intermediate stage. Random practice (just climbing whatever looks fun) produces diminishing returns.
What Needs to Change
1. Finger Strength Becomes Non-Negotiable
At V4, you can often use larger holds and avoid the smallest crimps. At V6, small holds are the norm. If you haven't started structured finger training, this is the time.
A basic max-hang protocol (see our finger training guide) 2-3x per week will produce meaningful gains within 4-8 weeks. This is the single highest-leverage training change for most V4-V5 climbers.
2. Technique Must Become Specific
Generic "climb more" is no longer enough. You need to identify and train your specific weaknesses:
- Slab climbers who avoid roofs need to train steep terrain and hip mobility.
- Power climbers who dyno everything need to train slow, controlled movement on technical faces.
- One-dimensional climbers need exposure to every style — crimps, slopers, pinches, compression, mantles.
3. Training Volume Needs Structure
At V4, you might climb 3 days a week and improve. At V5+, how you distribute that volume matters enormously:
- Separate "project" days (high intensity, low volume) from "volume" days (moderate intensity, high volume)
- Include dedicated off-wall training (antagonist muscles, core, mobility)
- Plan deload weeks every 3-4 weeks
4. Mental Game Enters the Picture
V6 problems often require reading sequences, committing to dynamic moves, and managing pump on longer problems. Mental skills like visualization, breath control, and beta planning become real performance factors.
A Sample Week for Breaking Into V6
| Day | Focus | Duration |
|---|---|---|
| Monday | Limit bouldering (V5-V7 attempts) | 90 min |
| Tuesday | Off-wall: hangboard + antagonist training | 60 min |
| Wednesday | Rest / active recovery | — |
| Thursday | Volume climbing (V3-V4 laps, technique focus) | 90 min |
| Friday | Off-wall: core + mobility | 45 min |
| Saturday | Project session (outdoor or gym) | 120 min |
| Sunday | Rest | — |
This is a simplified example. Your ideal schedule depends on your specific weaknesses, injury history, and available time — which is exactly what ClimbPlan's assessment process evaluates.
References
- Ericsson, K. A., Krampe, R. T., & Tesch-Römer, C. (1993). The role of deliberate practice in the acquisition of expert performance. Psychological Review, 100(3), 363-406.